Hair Porosity And Use of Oils
The porosity of the hair is determined by the protective layer of the hair – cuticle. It is made up of microscopic scales, which more or they "stand out" less from the surface of the hair and thus determine the structure of the hair itself. Porosity thus determines the hair total absorbency/permeability of the hair. We can then find out if the hair is capable of the given oil to accept, absorb it or whether it remains on the surface of the hair and weighs it down.
We have the porosity of the hair - as well as their number - given genetically. However, due to incorrect care, use of incorrect products, stress chemical treatments, etc. we can significantly influence the porosity.
We divide it into three basic grades:
- hair with low porosity
- hair with medium/normal porosity
- hair with high porosity
Hair with low porosity
Hair is smooth, straight, very fine.
Cuticles are tightly connected to each other over the entire surface, that's why hair is like that resistant to water. Water passes through them with difficulty – and not only water, but also the oils and masks themselves. The substances absorb very slowly and the hair also dries very slowly. Therefore, it is difficult for the hair to receive hydration and nutrition – the hair is more susceptible to damage. They can be quickly loaded with dense products that will remain on the surface of the hair.
We therefore choose oils that are harmless or have low comedogenic rate:
For example: argan, hemp, poppy, raspberry, prickly pear, safflower, castor, grape, nimbus, rosehip, sea buckthorn, almond, apricot oil...
Hair with medium/normal porosity
Cuticles are slightly ajar and allow water, oil and masks to penetrate deep into the hair structure. Hair can be smooth, shiny, straight or slightly curly.
Very easy to condition, hydrate and nourish in an ideal ratio. They are affected by the weather - they absorb moisture from the air and can appear frizzy if they are exposed to temperature changes.
This type of porosity can absorb all active substances and retain moisture. They can withstand even heavier products, but it will take some time for the product to soak in. Hair does not remain weighed down and greasy. Thicker oils are suitable, they don't bother the hair, but they absorb longer:
Appropriate they are more dense oils, they do not harm the hair, but they are absorbed longer:
For example: baobab, pumpkin, olive, sesame, plum, prickly pear, evening primrose, moringa, macadamia, avocado, carrot, mustard, corn, chia, mango butter, linseed and coconut oil...
High hair porosity
Hair is wavy, curly, frizzy, electrifying, drier and needs extra care.
Cuticles are open and hair They literally require thicker oils, butters or masks to hydrate and nourish. They can absorb oils faster, but they can lose moisture just as quickly precisely because the cuticle does not touch the hair.
If we treat such hair with the right natural products, gentle care and nutrition in the form of protein, the hair will be shiny, supple, and will not look dull and dry.
We must not forget to point out that heat treatment or chemical interventions can weaken hair with high porosity so much that it may start to break along its length. Therefore, limit these procedures or even better - completely eliminate.
They are suitable all types of oils from soft and light to dense and fatter:
For example: flax and coconut, palm, palm kernel oil, soy, cocoa, shea butter, wheat oil sprouts, olive, sesame, plum, argan, hemp, poppy, raspberry oil...
Degree of comedogenicity? And what is that?
Important is always the right choice oils for the given type hair and skin . The most important factor when choosing oils is degree of comedogenicity.
Degree comedogenicity is given on a scale from 0 (non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic). Marking in the nám scale provides information, on what type of skin and hair is the oil suitable for. It's not the rule is that it must always be so, there are also exceptions - for some even with subtle ones denser oil can sit on the hair and vice versa. The scale is used for general overview and then it dependsjust on our personal preferences. Mainly you have to listen to what your skin and hair are asking.
if it concerns the skin and scalp, The degree of comedogenicity can tell us whether the given oil clogs pores (and causes the formation of acne) or, on the contrary, they will help us with the given skin problem (dry to scaly or oily skin).
At our hair is about oil He did not weigh down the ends of the hair so as not to grease them, but on the contrary sufficiently nourished. If the hair is bleached along the lengths, its porosity it will be high, the cuticle damaged, the hair dull, dry and tangled - that's why we choose heavy, dense oils so that the hair can regenerate sufficiently and nurture.
- Degree of comedogenicity 0 (non-comedogenic) – argan, hemp, poppy, raspberry, prickly pear, mineral and safflower oil
- Degree of comedogenicity 1 – castor, grape, nimbus, rosehip, sea buckthorn, thistle, jojoba, pomegranate apples and calendula oil
- Degree of comedogenicity 2 – almond, apricot, baobab, pumpkin, olive, sesame, sunflower, plum and prickly pear oil
- Degree of comedogenicity 3 – evening primrose, moringa, macadamia, avocado, carrot, mustard, corn, chia oil and mango butter
- Degree of comedogenicity 4 – linseed, coconut, palm, palm kernel, soy and cocoa butter
- Degree of comedogenicity 5 – wheat germ oil
It should be noted that some studies and classifications of oils differ. For example, grapeseed oil is listed as level 1, but occasionally we can also encounter it at level 2. These two levels are not drastically different from each other.
When can I use hair oils?
Oils are a great helper in the fight not only against acne, but also for cleaning and conditioning the natural barrier of the scalp. A person who suffers from skin problems such as seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis should choose softer oils that do not clog the scalp. On the contrary: it should relieve her from burning, itching and help her to clean thoroughly from the accumulation of dirt.
In this case, we observed very good results when using grape, argan, almond, hemp, raspberry and sea buckthorn oil.
Massaging them into the scalp before washing will help to clean, regenerate and soothe the skin. Both regularity of use and dose rate are important. For thicker oils, it is sufficient to spread a few drops in your hands and rub into your hair, or repeat the application several times. The key is to find just the kind of oil that will suit you best - be it for your skin, scalp or hair itself.